There are certain things that Ham and I are totally aligned on, like our desire to stay in on Saturday nights and how much jam to make during currant season (the answer is always a lot). But things get polarizing when it comes to pasta salad. He’s on team creamy, opting for mayo-based salads, and I like a lighter oil-and-vinegar antipasto vibe. Often, instead of compromising, we’ll make two salads, like we do when it comes to gravy (Ham’s all about reducing stock into jus, but I like the classic roux-thickened kind).
I’ve got big news—I finally found a pasta salad we both love! This feta and za’atar pasta salad has all the creaminess Ham craves but with zero mayo so that I can dig it, too. And since the velvety texture of the salad comes from briny, salty feta, it never tastes too heavy. The crunchy cucumbers and bright lemon make this dish great alongside grilled meat. Try it alongside grilled lamb chops, kebabs, whole fish, or shrimp. For a full spread, I recommend pairing it with my lamb meatballs with tahini sauce, which you can make under a broiler or grill over charcoal. (Ooo, maybe go all the way and make ice-cold khoshaf to drink with nectarine and pistachio crumble for dessert.)
Here are some tips to make this pasta salad perfect:
Cook the pasta until fully tender, but not mushy. For hot pasta dishes, I always recommend that you cook it only until mostly tender, with a slight bite at the center. This is because the pasta will continue cooking as you toss it in sauce and even as it sit warm on your plate. With this pasta salad, you’ll be cooling it immediately, which halts the cooking. Also, if the pasta is left slightly undercooked, it’ll reach full tenderness by sucking up all your creamy sauce, leaving you with a dry pasta salad.
I ask you to go through a maybe annoying step of peeling, slicing, and crisping garlic in oil. This isn’t for the chips (although that’s a nice bonus); it’s for the oil. The garlic oil brings a savory depth to the dish, balancing the brightness of the feta and lemon. To get the chips and oil just right, remove the garlic oil from heat when the edges are barely becoming blonde, then allow it to continue cooking until golden with the residual heat of the oil. This allows all the moisture to cook off without the risk of burning. Garlic can quickly taste burnt even if it doesn’t look it.
Season aggressively! The feta brings a lot of salt and acid with it, but don’t be afraid to bring on the salt, pepper, and lemon. Pasta salad needs a lot of it to taste good. And remember, once chilled, the flavors will flatten out, so season it up until it’s really punchy. If you’re unsure and worried about going too far, add a pinch of salt to a spoonful, taste, and evaluate. If you like where it’s going, season up the whole batch.
After tossing everything together, things might look a bit too saucy or oily. Don’t worry. After chilling for just an hour in the fridge, the sauce will thicken up.
NOTES:
WANNA DOUBLE IT? This recipe easily scales up for a crowd. Just be sure to use a large pot to boil the pasta and the biggest bowl you’ve got for tossing everything together.
PASTA: Use any short pasta shape you want. (I like orecchiette because the little cups neatly hold the sauce and veggies, and are easy to eat with a spoon.) Try elbow macaroni, cavatelli, or fusilli.
CUCUMBERS: I love mini Persian cucumbers (the little guys that come in a 5 or 6-pack) because you can eat the skin and seeds, keeping the prep quick. But you can use any cuke you’ve got, keeping in mind that some varieties need to be peeled and seeded. Not sure? Just give your cucumber a taste. If the skin and/or seeds are tough, they’ve got to go. You want about 2 cups chopped.
PARLSEY: Swap the parsley for dill.
Feta & Za’atar Pasta Salad
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