when all I want is a bowl of comforting mush

Caramelized Onion & Toasted Rice Porridge

You’ve probably seen it all over the news, and yes, it still hasn’t snowed in New York. Snow days in the city are why I moved here from sunny California. Blizzard is my favorite weather. Our first winter here, almost 15 years ago, was full-on Home Alone Lost In New York. Everything was white for months, and I trudged through all that snow in a triple layer of hoodies and a pair of converse. Now I’m so ready with my Patagonia puffer and L.L. Beans snow boots, and not even a flurry. It’s still cold though, but cold weather without snow is just a mean trick. I’m suffering through chapped lips and leafless trees for nothing!

Not getting to enjoy my favorite time of year has made me crave comfort. After a long, cold walk in no snow, nothing warms up my belly and soul better than a hot bowl of mush. That mush can be anything, from cinnamon apple oats to a cheesy bowl of grits, as long as chewing is not required. Growing up, rice porridge was my mom’s go-to whenever I was sick or sad. The version I ate as a kid had yellow lentils, ginger, chicken, and potatoes. (You can find a recipe for it here.) Nowadays I make rice porridge in many ways with whatever I’ve got around. The rice is a blank, bland canvas that will work with any flavors you throw at it, from mild miso and soy sauce, to a punchy combo of Calabrian chili, lemon, and parmesan cheese.

This rice porridge takes two of my comfort favorites and puts them together: rice porridge with all the flavors of French onion soup. For a deeply savory bowl, I layer different nutty brown flavors, starting by toasting the rice, then caramelizing onions, deglazing with a dark liquor, and simmering it all in a rich bone broth. It takes some time to fully caramelize the onions until jammy and sweet, but I like to listen to an audiobook or podcast to pass the time while I stir. (I’m currently listening to A Generation of Sociopaths: How the Baby Boomers Betrayed America. It really confirms my suspicion that boomers have ruined the world. I bet they’re why we don’t have snow!)

Caramelized Onion & Toasted Rice Porridge

serves 4 | active time: 1 ½ hours | total time: 1 ½ hours